Видео

I signed up but I didn’t get any download link. Why’s that?

Great video but it should be noted that your camera seems to be ISO invariant. There are cameras out there which do analog boosting when changing the ISO.

The Headphone example was the best. I understand iso now. I was struggling dude. You rock !!!

Second time im watching one of your video and it's really good thanks a lot man ;-)

Your videos are amazing bro. I got so inspired subscribed and liked right away. Best tutorial on the lights out there so far I have bumped into. Keep up the good work.

excellent....

Thank you so much ❤ subbed!

I’ve been pleased with the comparison with audio recording. As a musician myself I’ve thought a lot of that but I wasn’t really sure whether it’s actually accurate. In any case, thanks for such a cristal-clear explanation.

Dang, great video

Thank you so much for a very lucid explanation of this complicated concept.a

In other words, ISO is actually the equivalent of a "digital zoom," which isn't really a zoom at all, but a crop and expand, no different than pinch-zooming on your phone and then taking a screenshot of the resulting visible image. This sounds, to me, like ISO should always be set as low as possible if you're going to edit your image yourself in post, and take the shot according to what it looks like with very little ISO. You can always "increase the ISO" later by simply raising the "brightness" slider in RawTherapee, or your RAW editor of choice.

Awesome breakdown, thank you very much! Question: how did you know exactly what temperature the stove light was so that you were able to match it exactly? Did you use the app and use the matching feature where you take a photo of the light source, or just do it by eye? Thanks!

There is really no reason to use high ISO in a studio setting if you understand the role of the FILL light with respect to dynamic range and recording shadows noise. Here is the simple method I developed for setting FILL and KEY ratio by eye. 1) Put a black and white hand towel draped over gray card (for color balance evaluation on not exposure) at the same distance as subject. 2) Set aperture for desired DOF and ISO recommended for capture method (e.g. ISO 800 for cLog) 3) Place FILL source on camera axis because that is the only way it will reach EVERYTHING the camera sees. Fill off axis will create UNFILLED SHADOW VOIDS 😫 in low places on face like smile lines and inside the mouth. The ideal way to simulate wrap around sky fill is to bounce it backwards off a large scrim to avoid secondary specular reflections and ‘crossed’ shadows from the Fill source. 4) Raise fill until sensor record the detail in the black towel target WITH ALL OTHER LIGHTS OFF. This is where photographers err by setting RIM and KEY lights and adjusting exposure to highlights on digital then adding the FILL. If the goal is to eliminate SHADOW NOISE you need to start with the FILL in a totally dark room and raise it to the point dark objects are recorded with SIGNAL ABOVE THE NOISE THRESHOLD. Fill needs to be the FOUNDATION the rest of the lighting from the front overlaps but highlight exposure needs based on the brighter back light if used for subject / background separation and revealing 3D shape. 5) Turn on and adjust ‘RIM’ lights behind the subject next (if used) based on clipping where they hit the edges of the white towel target. Ideally only SPECULAR highights should be 255 in a digital file. If you made solid smooth white FILL + KEY LIT objects 255 then the specular clues to shape created by the reflections of the light sources are lost and white objects will look unnaturally flat. Keep the non-specular rim lit whites and skin around 250. 6) Turn on the KEY light in front and adjust so white highlights it creates on the front of the white towel wind up slightly darker than the ones below clipping created on the edges by the rim light. That workflow creates normal “seen by eye” lighting with detail and 3D modeling similar to outside on a clear day with subject in backlight. From that baseline technically of recording shadows without noise via intelligent use of FILL you can make the scene as dark and moody as the intro scene simply by reducing the intensity of RIM and KEY sources relative to the fill which is adjusted relative to your aperture. This is lighting 101 in still photography to fit full range to the DR of reversal film / color print paper / digital sensor I learned back in the 1970s. The playback and live view with digital is what makes the use of the towels for evaluation of exposure possible. There is no longer any need to meter exposure, just use the towels representing the darkest and lightest tones in the scene, your eyes and your brain. 😊

You totally slipped that SmallRig RC 350B in and I didn't hit L on my keyboard, bc you blended it in perfecto!! Dig it!!

but the first native iso is 640, not 800... or ist that only on the s3?

Superb

great techniques and tips. 🔥🔥🔥

That was great, thank you. I think this will help me a lot 👍

Nah this wasnt explained well. got confusing comparing things. show pictures or videos examples.

Loved this video, it's actually so funny you pulled up the Canon FD zoom lens, I've been shooting with those all week haha! I just happened to have a pair around my house and I used an adapter to get them onto my Sony camera. I've found them online for as low as $20 so definitely a great lens!

Good stuff till I saw the light in the shot! Lol! U called it out, good move... super cool! Thnx!

LED is future indeed, and is better for slmost everything

to achieve that saturated blue can you simply use the RGB function if the light supports it? That seems to be more straightforward than adding gels or calculating color temperatures

It looks like processed digital footage, not even close to be an accurate film. Film look has non-linear nature due to a complex of chemistry and light physics resulting in unmatched gamma and color density, unreachable for the existing digital cameras. Digital sample still may be very cinematic, but has no chance to replace a film or claiming to be as an accurate.

Me watching this on an iPhone at 360p so I can’t see the high iso grain

Thanks man ♥♥

I’ve been wanting to level up my lighting, thank you for making this video!!! 🔥

Loved this

Thanks you a lot I suscribe

I have never understood color contrast and white balance as I have after watching this video. SIr you are awesome !! Thank You !!!!

Super 👌

So should i use ND and use higher iso in the day to have a lot of hightlight info?

Always wanted a video that could quantify color temperate as a means to paint and add contrast mood to the image. Thank you for making this video, which helps explain this to directors, dps, and more people from production

can someone explain to me what he said in simpler terms.

New subscriber here! I am loving your videos Jimmy. They are sooooo good. The value you are providing to your viewers are immense. Keep going!

Great video and awesome lighting setup! Thanks so much for these tips! I have an off-topic question for you: I don't really know if you shot this with a film or digital camera, but I'm looking for a way to emulate the "jitter" or texture shaking of analog films. . If it had been emulated, how did you manage to do it? Did you use any plugin in particular? Thanks if you answer me!

Very useful and well-laid out info. Thank you sir!

Amazing. Please keep these tutorials coming - they're so insightful.

This single video was better than 2 years of film school

Great video :) thx

You earned a subscriber❤

Ladies and gentlemen, this is not a youtuber, this is a professor at this film thing who happens to make time to teach others. Kudos Sir!

Great video ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate it. You’re a skilled cinematographer

Is it still free?

I tried to contact you by email. Please reply to me.

another great video!

Thanks 🙏

Intro went absolutely crazy! 🔥

love your content!

Really enjoyed the deepdive! Great explanation of the tools you can use when it comes to color temp 🙌